This is a report of my second visit to the Philippines. Part one – Cebu – Bohol – Cebu.
The flight from Gatwick via Doha with Qatar Airways went well. The planes were not as comfortable as Cathay Pacific, but dividing the journey nearer halfway at Doha was an improvement compared to Hong Kong. 6half hours/9half hours compared to 12 hours/4 hours via Hong Kong. Interesting 'low lactose' meal on the flight. Baked potato with wild rice!!
I reached the plane door when alighting at Cebu and the heat and humidity hit me and it felt good. I had arrived and my adventure was about to start. On the taxi ride from the airport I noticed that the traffic was just as manic as I remembered from my first visit. The Mango Park Hotel is adequate, no real complaints, though it would not be difficult to improve the breakfast. An excellent restaurant, the Lighthouse, is just next door and is highly recommended.
I do not get much sleep as I got used to the noise of the the air conditioning. The next few days will be quiet and give me time to get over the flight.
Day 2
Day one finished with bad vibrations. The electrical supply in the Philippines is unreliable with insufficient capacity for the demand. So this is managed by turning off the supply to different areas in turn. Yesterday evening it was our turn to have a brownout (what Filipinos call a blackout). The Hotel backup generator kicks in and it is just below my room. It was unbelievable. Rather like having a room on top of a load of spin dryers. Down to reception to ask for a change of room.
The receptionist initially ignored my request in the hope I would go away. "Sorry sir we have no deluxe rooms unoccupied". A big smile and persistence paid off as I was upgraded at no additional cost to a suite for one night only.
The day started off with a boring visit to Ayala just to pick up some water and snacks and have lunch. During the afternoon I dozed and tried to catch up on some sleep. Then life got more interesting.
In the evening I met up with friends for the ‘all you can eat buffet’ at the Waterfront Hotel. As I was paying the taxi driver I realised I only had my ‘wallet for pickpockets’ with only a little money in it. However, I did have some Sterling, so a quick visit to the Hotel reception to change some money and I was all set to go. Usually to avoid losing all my money at once I tend to distribute my money round my body. I have a wallet for pickpockets, a normal wallet, a money belt, a wallet suspended from my neck under my shirt and finally if required a secret compartment in my hat. The only downside is that sometimes I have to virtually undress to pay for something.
After a nice meal and a few beers I was told we were going to participate in the Philippine national pastime 'karaoke'. Normally I would run a mile, but what the heck. We all piled into Antonio's multicab and headed off into the dark. We ended up at a KTV joint where we got a room with a karaoke machine. All I can say is that Abba saved my life when I had to contribute during the next two hours. It was a good laugh with some excellent singing by other members of the party. I think I severely damaged their hearing with my appalling singing. They will not make the mistake of asking me again!!!!
On Day 4 I headed off to Bohol to stay at the Kaylaa Hotel in Dimiao. We were met off the boat by an enthusiastic American who runs the resort. The resort is very nice. Jon, the 'manager' was a builder in the US and it shows in the finish. My only gripe was that I did not realise just how far it was from Tagbiliran.
Day 5 - The Bohol Tour - Why did the tourist cross the bridge? The hanging bridge. A brilliant piece of marketing. Two bamboo and rope bridges swaying about 20ft above a river. You pay your entrance fee, cross on the first bridge, see some stalls selling tourist trinkets and then return on the second bridge. I am still not sure how this can be sold as an attraction.
Despite my cynicism an enjoyable day with plenty of opportunities to take photographs. I paid extra to go to Sagabayan Peak as it was not included in this tour. One of the better attractions it can offer good views of the Chocolate Hills, nicer than the official viewpoint in Carmen if that is busy.
Also the standard Loboc River lunchtime cruise, spoilt by too many boats but worth doing once. Also the required stop to visit a Tarsier. Not as good a place as that seen on my first trip. The butterfly farm is worth visiting.
Day 6 - Resting at the resort with a stroll down the beach to take photographs. The coconut husks buried in the sand looked like the tops of peoples heads with the fibre looking like hair. Lots of broken coral of all shapes and colours. A couple of fishermen were gathering in a large net by hand. I guess it has been done that way for hundreds of years and they will keep doing it that way for hundreds more.
I am told that the farmers and fishermen meet at the local market and a lot of goods are exchanged by barter and no money changes hands.
Two little girls wandered back and forth past me as I was photographing the coral until I at last took their picture.
Jon, the manager/owner of the resort is an enthusiastic cook and kept getting me to try different dishes. Very nice and I promised to send him Mum's BBQd spare rib recipe.
Day 7 - up at 3am for the 4 am departure to see the dolphins who only make an appearance at dawn. The driver of the Bohol tour just happened to have a cousin with a boat who would take me out at a 'special rate'. We trundle off and I am dumped on a beach at about 5 am to be met by two gnarled old fishermen. I get on their boat (called a banca) and we head off as the sun is rising. The boat is largely made of bamboo. An incredibly versatile material widely used for allsorts of things, though I have yet to see a bamboo car!!!
The number of dolphin watching boats increased, but my captain seemed to know where to go and we were usually ahead of the other boats as a pod of dolphins appeared. The tour ended with a trip to Balikasag Island. Absolutely amazing. A shelf of coral, no more than 5ft deep surrounds the Island until it plunges down a hundred foot drop to the bottom. The sea life where the shelf ended was fantastic and very tame as the fish were used to the snorkellers feeding them. Thousands of fish all around you of every colour. My guide showed me how to ruffle the fronds where the parrot fish live and they come out to try and frighten you away (they are tiny and very funny).
As you floated at the underwater cliff edge you could see far below the dim outlines of much larger fish. I regret not having an underwater camera.
Day 8 - my return to Cebu was pretty uneventful. I nearly avoided the taxi touts and got away with just handing over 10 pesos. They are a real nuisance at the Cebu Oceanjet pier.
I booked back into the Mango Park Hotel. "Sorry sir your room will not be ready until 2pm". This is at 10 past 2. I point out that it is 2pm. "Sir it is 1:30" I raise my eyebrows. "Ok Sir, 30 minutes your room will be ready". After 1 hour my room is ready and she gets out the key of room 212. I point out that that room is unacceptable and I transferred from it last week. I think I was no longer smiling and was definitely not happy. She quickly got me the key to room 304. I left her talking to a family of four who I think she was trying to squeeze into room 212 as I now had their room.
I needed to go to Ayala to stock up on cash as once again Bohol had emptied my wallet at a fantastic rate. Feeling brave and with advice from the hotel guard I hopped on the 12L jeepney. I am not robbed or have my pockets picked and it is a very fast and very cheap journey (7 Pesos). I return in a taxi as it is dark and I am carrying enough cash for the next 7 days.